What a change 48 hours makes! Going from some pretty poor League Two football at a three-sided stadium with a few thousand others (https://pearceysblog.wordpress.com/2015/01/07/oxford-united-v-shrewsbury-town-league-two-friday-26th-december/) to a top six Premier League game at one of my personal favourite grounds in the country with 35,000 others. You might say a big improvement in two days, we’ll find out later.
Anyway this whole trip started a few weeks before with Christmas shopping, aka looking for presents on the internet because I’m officially allergic to actual shopping, and thinking about what do get my girlfriend. Fortunately she’s a big football fan, well I say football fan, she supports West Ham, and as we were in London for a few days anyway I had a look on my old friend Soccerway and sure enough The Hammers were home that weekend to big boy London rivals Arsenal. To be honest I was only really looking on the West Ham ticket site on the off chance of a ticket and was surprised to find a fair few tickets left a little while after they had gone on general sale. I was, however, somewhat differently surprised by the price, but as the tickets were a present I won’t go into that and Premier League prices in general today, plus she’s worth every penny (sick bags provided).
So after a cross-London trek from Watford where we’d visited the Harry Potter studios the day before (highly recommended!) we checked into our hotel right by Stamford Bridge and got on the tube for another trek across London, this time East towards Upton Park. I can’t definitely remember if I’ve mentioned it before on the blog, I probably have, but even if I haven’t I’ll just drop it in again as my dislike of London is large. It’s too big and noisy and always busy and expensive and smells and it’s just not Cardiff which is perfect in most ways (kind of) so I don’t do London. But this isn’t a travel blog so I’ll leave it there.
About five-ish hours after leaving Chelsea we were off the tube at Upton Park and walking down Green Street, with me in my mind thinking I was Pete Dunham in my casual gear and Gazelles doing a nutty walk with me nut daaan and definitely able to do a better East London accent than most in ITV2’s favourite movie. Have to say, the walk up to the Boleyn Ground is one of the things that makes the stadium so great. You don’t get that with a lot of new grounds in their out-of-town retail parks, but this reminded me of how Ninian Park used to be with Cardiff, walking through the Canton or Grangetown residential areas past the rough looking but familiar pubs and the atmosphere gathering as you get round the stadium.
We had a walk around the front of the stadium before heading into the club shop so I could add to my scarf collection and Becky ended up buying a nice West Ham coat and some gloves. Have to say, it is a very decent club shop, loads of really quality Adidas stock and a good sale on as well. Plus the queuing system is well thought out with a lot of staff on, meaning we hardly stood waiting for long considering how busy club shops get on matchdays, particularly with crowds of 40,000 odd like on this day. After giving them a bit more money, we had a walk past the front entrance of the stadium on the way out of the shop and caught a glimpse of one of the co-owners’ cars, Gold and Sullivan of Birmingham fame, a very large Rolls Royce, obviously all that ticket revenue is being spent well!
So it was on into the ground, and although this is the first time the Boleyn Ground, or Upton Park, whatever you want to call it (The Boleyn Ground is the proper name, Upton Park is just the surrounding area for clarification), has appeared in the blog, it’s not the first time I’ve been. Unfortunately my first visit was on one of my worst days of being involved with football as Cardiff lost 3-0 to West Ham in the Championship Play-Offs second leg, to make it 5-0 on aggregate, and then on the way home we found out Vincent Tan was throwing all our history and tradition out the window by creating the Cardiff Malaysia Dragons franchise. Not a good trip all round. Anyway, this time was different, I was in the home end, and preparing to properly enjoy the stadium which was pretty hard to do on the last visit. Weirdly, I was also planning to actually kind of support West Ham. Obviously as a Cardiff fan there’s a certain amount of reputation that follows the club around, and the Irons have a similar reputation so you kind of learn to just hate other clubs like that. Stoke, Millwall, Palace and Birmingham stick in my mind as being in a similar situation. But as Becky has supported West Ham all her life then I decided to make an effort, although it wasn’t too difficult when the opponents were Arsenal, who I severely dislike for having the highest rip-off ticket prices in the country, and also the absolute worst fans. Plus they beat Cardiff 4-0 in an FA Cup replay on an absolutely freezing night in February a few years ago which stands out as a rubbish away day. So it was into the Bobby Moore Upper Stand and a chill in the concourse before the game.
As you might expect from a stadium like Upton Park, built mainly as we see it now in the 80s and 90s, the concourse is a compact space with small food and drink kiosks and little standing space. This sounds like a bad thing but I much prefer stadiums with these smaller areas under the stands as the general atmosphere it creates is brilliant, much better than the open lifeless concourses you get in new-build stadiums. Unfortunately, as you might also expect from a Premier League club, the prices on the food and drink in the small kiosks are somewhat over-inflated. All I’ll say is £8.80 for a bottle of Carlsberg and a burger. Plus £3.50 for a programme, what’s all that about? When I come to power all programmes will be £3 maximum, that 50p is important. Anyway, the burger wasn’t too bad, the atmosphere was buzzing and I was at a top ground, looking forward to a good game with my lovely girlfriend, life was good!
And a good game it really should be, obviously Arsenal as ever were challenging for that top 4 place, but no more of course because winning lots of trophies is far too taxing! However, they were doing it in their normal fashion of playing some really nice football, especially through the midfield, certainly appealing to the football purist in me. Weirdly though, it was West Ham’s form that was going to hopefully make this such a good game. Going into it the Irons sat a point ahead of their London rivals after recovering from a slow-ish start to the season to go on a run of one loss in 11 games during October, November and December before losing at Chelsea two days before on Boxing Day. The tough Christmas schedule continued here, but with Sam Allardyce opting to rest Barcelona loanee Alex Song and top scorer Diafra Sakho for the visit to Stamford Bridge he was obviously targeting this game to gain some points and extend the gap between West Ham and the chasing pack for European places. I was excited anyway as we took our seats in the top tier behind the goal, which did offer a top view of the pitch. From left to right there was the towering West Stand, or ‘Alpari Stand’ for sponsorship purposes, the equally impressive Trevor Brooking Stand opposite housing the away fans in a section, and the slightly disappointing East Stand with only the one real tier, but it does mean you get a decent view over East London from where we were in the Bobby Moore Upper.
After the pre-match Premier League pleasantries were out the way, and a full Boleyn Ground house had taken their seats, the game started and straight away started living up to expectations. Just five minutes in a West Ham corner was cleared out as far as former Arsenal midfielder Alex Song on the edge of the area who rifled a shot into the bottom left hand corner. Cue scenes around the stadium, only for them to be cut short by the assistant referees flag. Over jogged referee Neil Swarbrick and after a quick consultation they decided Diafra Sakho obstrcuted the goalkeeper’s view from his offside position. Although it was probably the right decision by law, whether the law is actually right by the game is another question for another time. West Ham didn’t let this setback effect them though as they continued to dominate the game. Initially when I’d heard the line-up I didn’t quite think it would really work, with a midfield diamond of Song, Noble and Kouyate, led by Downing behind Sakho and big Andy Carroll up front, but the unexpected tactic seemed to catch Arsenal by surprise as they struggled to pick up Kouyate and Noble playing a bit wider, Downing in the free role and Aaron Cresswell, and to a lesser extent Joey O’Brien, on the overlap from full-back. But work it did as nice build up play through midfield led to attempts on goal from Kouyate and Carroll before the half hour mark. Unfortunately for the Irons, the reason it seemed to be working wasn’t due to tactical genius from Big Sam, but tactical chaos from the players as they struggled to properly adapt to their new formation, ending up rather confusing Arsenal into sitting a bit deeper in defense. The Gunners soaked up the pressure well and started using the counter-attack through the pace of Welbeck, Oxlade-Chamberlain and the impressive Alexis Sanchez. This led to another big moment for referee Swarbrick five minutes before the break as Santi Cazorla bundled his way into the box and went down under pressure from James Tomkins and an off-balance Winston Reid. Already incensed West Ham fans went into meltdown a bit but it was a stonewall penalty from where I was. Cazorla picked himself up and sent Adrian the wrong way from 12 yards to give Arsenal the lead. A kick in the teeth just before half-time for West Ham, but the Gunners weren’t done there as two minutes later Oxlade-Chamberlain sent Cresswell all over the place before putting the ball on a plate for Welbeck to poke home and the away side went in 2-0 up after an exciting 45 minutes.
After all the excitement of the end of the first-half, the players obviously needed an extra break as they didn’t really bother coming out to play straight after the break. The only bright spark of the first 15 minutes was Alexis Sanchez up front for Arsenal, who goes onto the list of truly world class players I’ve seen live. I made a point of Eden Hazard going onto the list after Belgium away with Wales in November for his incredible ball control and balance. Sanchez is very similar, but he has a fantastic ability to do it at full speed. Quite a sight to see the Chilean, who isn’t the biggest in stature, shrugging off the big West Ham centre-backs and retaining possession at full tilt, a pleasure to watch. However, it wasn’t a moment of Sanchez quality that was the first talking point of the second half, rather a bit of James Tomkins trickery as he wandered past Cazorla on the right wing and produced a perfect cross for Cheikh Kouyate to get above Koscielny and beat Szczesny via a slight Debuchy deflection. This opened the game right up and created a brilliantly exciting last half an hour. Allardyce smartly moved back to the system that had served West Ham well so far in the season, bringing on winger Enner Valencia for the ineffective Sakho and pushing Downing back to his usually wide role for the 4-3-3. The Irons started to spread the ball well but Koscielny and Mertesacker just about coped with big Andy Carroll. This gave the Arsenal front three even more scope to counter-attack, and only fine saves from Adrian stopped first Sanchez and then Oxlade-Chamberlain from putting the game to bed. Instead it came down to a last 10 minutes of aerial hammering (get it?) from West Ham as they pushed for the equaliser, throwing on one of my most hated players in Kevin Nolan to do his usual job of sniffing around any Carroll knock-downs in the box, meanwhile Arsenal tried to shut up shop with defenders Gibbs and Chambers replacing Welbeck and Oxlade-Chamberlain.
The numbers in Arsenal’s defence just held on despite a particularly glaring miss from Enner Valencia and can thank a brilliant Mertesacker goal-line clearance for clinching the three points that saw the Gunners leapfrog the home side into fifth and keeping their hopes of yet another fourth place finish alive. West Ham meanwhile finish a tough Christmas weekend point-less but can take heart from having pushed Arsenal all the way and deserved a point from the game. I, as a kind-of neutral, have to say I thoroughly enjoyed the game, and also the stadium. West Ham will move out of the Boleyn Ground and move to the Olympic Stadium in yet another ground-related travesty of the modern game, but I certainly hope to be back to write a full obituary before that sad day for Irons, and general football fans alike, arrives.